The importance given to nature and sustainability has been increasing steadily for many years and has become inevitable. One of the biggest technical challenges is replacing silicone with environmentally friendly products that offer the same level of performance. The Emogreen™ range from Seppic offers up to date alternatives to lightweight silicone. Tested against different grades traditionally used in hair care, such as Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane or Phenyl Trimethicone. Emogreen™ L15 and Emogreen™ L19 have already proven their suitability with important results such as effective, durable and easily biodegradable alternatives. To enrich this range, Seppic recently developed a new emollient, Emogreen™ HP 40 (INCI: C15-19). Alkanes), based on a new innovative bio-sourced molecule, hydrogenated polyfarnesin. A very viscous substance, such as dimethiconol, has very interesting properties to replace mixtures based on dimethiconol. Combined with C15-19 bio-alkanes for easier handling, it is the ideal sustainable and 100% natural alternative to heavy-duty silicone.
Tested on damaged Caucasian hair, Emogreen™ HP 40 exhibited film-forming properties similar to those of dimethicone/dimethiconol (DMD). Thermal protection tests, performed on healthy hair strands using pure raw material and with hair serum containing 3% Emogreen™ HP 40 vs DMD, showed significant gains in protecting the internal structure of hair keratin. % and +22%, respectively. The performance between Emogreen™ HP 40 and DMD is comparable.
The triple test also revealed an equivalent sensory profile. In fact, expert panelists were not able to differentiate the locks treated with Emogreen™ HP 40 or DMD in a hair rinse-out mask formula according to criteria such as combability, shine and slip. Finally, tested on volume control and defining natural Brazilian curls in a hair serum, this time Emogreen™ HP 40 showed even better results than cyclopentasiloxane/dimethiconol and placebo.
Tested at 42.5% in a liquid lipstick against hydrogenated polyisobutene in the same concentration, Emogreen™ HP 40 was found to be less viscous in the formula by a panel of 5 estheticians. Color intensity was also evaluated on the same formula using the visual component exclusion (SCE) method. No significant differences were observed, thus highlighting Emogreen™ HP 40 as a relevant sustainable alternative that provides color intensity and comfort on the lips.
sun care market
Tested in a sunscreen formula of 2% SPF 30 vs. VP/Eicosene Copolymer, water resistance measured in the lab after 20 and 40 minutes. Formulated with Emogreen™ HP 40 delivered the same water-repellent performance as VP/Eicosene copolymer.
Emogreen™ HP 40 completes the range of silicone alternatives Seppic has offered to date. It is a versatile ingredient that provides feel and performance thanks to its film-forming properties, making it interesting for many applications such as hair care, makeup, sun care but also skin care. Its inert and polar structure makes it extremely stable, easy to install and compatible with a wide range of oil phases. It is biodegradable in nature and is a 100% bioavailable alternative to dimethiconol blend that offers similar or even better performance in some cases. Further investigations will be conducted to complete its efficacy profile.