Textured Hair: What is the routine for beautiful curls?

Frizzy hair is on the rise and we can thank the body for the positive and empowering movements. A little guide for wavy, curly, frizzy and flyaway hair.

When we talk about woven hair, this relates to six out of ten people in the world and 45% of French men and women*. And in Generation Z (people born between 1995 and today, editor’s note), more than 50% of the population owns this profile, Says Jean-Michel Godino, Kérastase mentor. However, only 5% of hairdressers today are trained on this topic, Denounces again.» Professional branding has also been created master class To make up for this lack of diversity in the hairdressing world. That observation prompted Morgane Brisson to open the Baraboucle in 2018, devoted primarily to woven lengths. Successfully: I opened a second salon in Paris last year and it took me at least two months to wait for an appointment.

This was confirmed by Ylanaé, a hairstylist by training who, at the request of her manager while working at the salon, had already turned away a client with frizz. “Unfortunately, profitability is often a priority, and when you have to spend 45 minutes with a client for the same price, salons prefer to do without it …”, decompose. This is also one of the reasons why he started his own business and launched Coach My Curls, an online hair training program for woven hair. She is also a certified hairdresser ®️Rëzocut®, a dry hair cutting technology developed in the United States.

As for the products, The conclusion is the same. “When I decided to stop straightening my hair, I found myself faced with an extreme void because few bands really matched my green nature and convictions”Sophia Taleb Benjelloun, founder of Kurl Power, a brand of solid cosmetics for textured hair, recalls. “This is how I began to take an interest in her and realized that I was not the only one who wanted to return to nature, ”A young woman improvised her work as a doctor in her kitchen for lack of choice. This is also the same way Kelly Massol started before launching Les Secrets de Loly in 2009, a clean brand of textured hair.

What do you know about your curly hair?

To get beautiful curls, it is good to understand how your hair is formed. The texture of woven hair is not different from that of smooth hairJean-Michel Gaudino explains. But unlike the latter, its implantation at the level of the hair follicle in the dermis is at an angle, which explains this spiral torsion. The result: the hair fibers are flat, not as round as smooth hair. » Its fragility and tendency to break is precisely explained by this inversion of itself. In places where the hair is bent, its diameter is thinner and the scales tend to rise. This makes it vulnerable to external aggressions.

Another important key to understand: Coarse hair is not naturally dry. In fact, the resulting sebum at the root level that is supposed to moisturize the fibers along its entire length, going to the ends, simply does not reach its destination, because the spiral shape of the hair slows down its flow …

The right routine for coarse hair

All experts agree on one point: a good routine is the most important component in the search for beautiful curls. Goodbye hair products that aren’t designed at all for all hair types, goodbye shea butter as the only ally: Now, brands are also thinking about textured hair.

1. Wash it. Choosing a shampoo is essential. We like it soft and sulfate-free, meant to get rid of impurities and leftover sweat or pollution, without simultaneously absorbing hair sebum, or attacking the scalp.

2. Moisturize it. With the help of your choice of conditioner, hair milk or even primer. “ To find out if the product is moisturizing, just look at the composition of the latter.advises Kelly Masol. If water comes first or second, it is. However, we don’t hydrate a loop every day, at the risk of exhausting it. “We talk so much about water that some people get soggy, The specialist warns. The result: volume swells and we end up with a lot of frizz. Ironically, the hair is drier. » and clean? In the homemade ingredients we find cornstarch (cornstarch) which is used as a mask (the recipe can be found easily in a few clicks), flaxseed gel, honey or aloe vera.

3. Feed him. After drinking, hair needs to eat. This is where nutritional care plays a role, which will enhance it. We prefer oils, serums, creams, and even butters. This basic step will seal in the water. and clean? As for natural oils, we go for those in jojoba, avocado, and or nigella, which we leave in for at least 2 to 3 hours, or even overnight if the hair is brittle and brittle. But in case of prolonged exposure, avoid applying the oil to the roots for fear of suffocating the scalp.

4. Strengthen it. From time to time, we think about giving him protein care. It is the keratin in the hair fiber that allows for nicely full curls. When the latter seems sad, we opt for fortifying treatments rich in keratin, rice, silk proteins or even provitamins B5. and clean? One teaspoon of active protein ingredients, such as spirulina powder, is added to the mask.

* Kurl Power Poll.

Image credits: Photo Bruno Juminer; Directed by Dominic Ivec

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