All about microneedling, an effective treatment to combat hair loss

Experts tell us all about this method of stimulating the scalp, which has been shown to promote hair growth.

We all lose between 50 and 100 hairs a day. After this threshold, the fall is considered “pathological”. In most cases, it’s a temporary disruption of the hair cycle called telogen effluvium. “It is a sudden loss of hair characterized by diffuse flakes. Elle peut être causée par divers facteurs comme un choc émotionnel, une grossesse, le Covid-19, une carence en vitamins, ou encore une pathologie infectieuse ou inflammatoire”, explique Lisa Bouhanna, Directrice du Center Chirurgico-Médical du Cuir Chevelu (CMCC) in Paris.

When this phenomenon is diagnosed, doctors often recommend the capillary micro-needling technique to promote hair growth. Already well known in the field of skin care, this treatment emerged in the 1990s and has been increasingly popular in France for over a year, where it can now be practiced in aesthetic medicine practices.

stimulating growth

concept? Using a pen or roller made up of many small needles, the doctor makes tiny punctures on the scalp. These micro-holes improve blood circulation and increase the production of fibroblasts, which are the cells responsible for collagen renewal in tissues. This, in turn, will help promote hair follicle growth, says Lisa Bohana. This somewhat “shocking” action of the scalp causes inflammation and thus scarring that would stimulate the follicles.

This painless method does not require any passage through the operating room. Dr. Valerie Leduc, MD, cosmetologist and founder of Maison Epigenetic in Paris, stresses that “the mechanical aggression of microneedles is very beneficial and effective, even if it seems barbaric,” the fact that they “attack” the dermis and the epidermis stimulates it. “

For the smoothest scalp, a numbing cream is applied to the area to be treated about 30 minutes before the procedure. The doctor then traces the lines with the comb and then makes these tiny holes, row by row, eight millimeters deep in the dermis. “It’s not pleasant, but it’s not painful either,” Dr. Leduc reassured. The treatment can be supplemented with a session of LED lights immediately before or after it to increase blood flow and calm redness. The process takes about twenty minutes on average.

Unlike mesotherapy, microneedling does not necessarily involve injecting a cosmetically active ingredient or vitamins into the scalp. “In some clinics, we add an additional product. It does no harm, but so far, studies in this direction have not been sufficiently developed,” says Lisa Bohana.

In Dr. Leduc’s surgery, for example, growth factors are deposited in the membrane, at the base of the dermis, where all the stem cells are located. The patient should then keep the solution on the scalp for 24 hours without shampooing.

In the video, why do we lose more hair in the fall?

progressive result

Usually, treatment requires a weekly or bi-monthly session, as needed, for about three months. After that, maintenance sessions may be recommended to maintain results once or twice a year.

The first effects begin to be felt after the fourth date. Dr. Leduc emphasizes that “fall is reduced, strands are no longer shed while showering, and hair regains volume, vitality and texture.” Little by little, nature takes over and the hair returns to a natural cycle. Because if its benefits are proven, it is important to note that the remedy is not a miracle. Lisa Bohana insists that “the patient can notice a ‘normalization’ of hair loss rather than a complete cessation of hair loss.” We will never be able to stop it permanently and anyway, we lose hair every day no matter what, even when everything is going well.

Moreover, microneedling has an interest in getting into the hair routine for those who don’t notice any particular thinning but would like to strengthen their hair. Those who have fine or brittle hair can also use it, with the aim of prevention: “For a woman who is losing volume and vitality, it is really worth it,” advises esthetician Valerie Leduc.

Side effects and contraindications

In the weeks following the procedure, patients may notice a slight transient worsening of hair loss, which is completely normal. “It’s even positive. It means that the treatment is working and all hair is in the telogen phase (Editor’s note: This is the third and final stage of the hair’s life cycle that ends with its fall) fell out until new hair grows back,” says Lisa Bohana. In the treated area, redness may also persist for two to six hours after the session. In rare cases, small edema appears. All these effects fade quickly, so you can quickly get back to work .

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On the other hand, hair micro-pricks are not effective with a bald person who no longer has hair follicles. It also does not work on a person with traction alopecia (a phenomenon that occurs due to the practice of very tight hairstyles), because there is no longer an onion on the skull. This method is not suitable for people with skin or scalp conditions, circulatory problems or cancer, as well as for pregnant or breastfeeding women. As for the cost of the procedure, it varies between 150 and 300 euros per session, depending on the clinic.

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